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How do you keep your record collection
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Vapula



Joined: 13 Feb 2013
Posts: 801
Location: The Black Lodge

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use these

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/60198423/#/10198425

They are expensive when you consider you have to buy two per shelf but I use them for all my records and books they work fine.
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blodhemn9



Joined: 12 Aug 2009
Posts: 5110
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to store them as tight as possible. Just put enough in each cubby so that they don't lean too much, yet loose enough to pull them out easily.
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satanic ritual abuse



Joined: 09 May 2011
Posts: 2233

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see, thanks guys.
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captainretardo



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 990

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ideally, your lps will be vertical but loose enough such that you can pull any lp out without moving the adjacent lps. In reality, that generally only works if you have a full cubby hole or keep something like a large book on one end if it's not full. If they're too tight, you will accelerate the emergence of ringwear on your jackets. If they're too loose and lean, it is possible for them to warp.

I have two types of storage: some 'spines out' shelving, and some flip-bins (like a record store, basically). In my spines-out shelves, all cubby holes (shelves) are full and records are vertical, but loose. That is achieved by keeping an amount on each shelf such that inserting a new LP can be done easily, and inserting said LP will still allow the records to be loose. In other words, 4-5 LPs can be added to each shelf (anywhere among the records, i.e., not at the ends). If I crammed them all to one side of the shelf, there would be a small gap on the other side, which could accomodate those 4-5 LPs... but instead of doing that, that 'extra space' is divided among all records on the shelf.

That is really the best way to store LPs, but is not always practical. For example if you buy records often, you would constantly be adding them, and then moving 1 or 2 lps from that shelf to the next shelf, moving 1 or 2 from that next shelf to the 3rd shelf etc. In other words, a not-fun chore.

The ones I keep in bins do acquire a gradual lean because the front of the bins don't offer a ton of support, plus I want to flip through the LPs. That's not ideal but is OK if you do it in the correct manner. (You could do this on spines-out shelves also). In this case, for the bin, the rear-most LP (analagous to the one on the end of spines-out shelving) needs to be flush against the wall. The next LP goes flush against it, and the next, and the next etc. However after maybe a few dozen LPs like that it is ok if they start to acquire a gradual lean--key idea is that the entire stack does not lean--if they do, the ones nearest the shelf wall will warp.

What you NEVER want to do is allow the top of an LP jacket to rest against the adjacent LP (or shelf wall), but have a substantial gap between the bottoms of the jackets. (Think of setting an LP jacket 1'' from a wall and leaning the jacket against the wall). When you then put weight on that (ie more records beside it), your records will warp. While that likely seems like common sense, there are pics here of people doing just that.

You might argue that if you allow your records to acquire a gradual lean far from a shelf wall, you must (by definition) be introducing gaps like that between them. The difference is that when done 'properly', those gaps are extremely extremely minute. Are they perfect for your LPs? No. But do they have a severe risk of getting warped? No.

In other words, there's always a bit of give and take storing LPs. The simple answer is don't keep them too tight (ringwear), or too loose (warping).
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rauta



Joined: 23 Apr 2008
Posts: 1584
Location: Finlandia

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geez louise... It isn't really that complicated if you just take a minute to think about it. Like the above post says, loose and tight enough and that's it.
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Inverto Crosso



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 258
Location: Satanic Metal Temple

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...a full cubby hole...a substantial gap between the bottoms...the rear-most LP (analagous)...insertions too tight or too loose...
That's some good vinyl freak terminology.
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Eivittu



Joined: 17 Sep 2013
Posts: 780
Location: Fineland

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rauta wrote:
Geez louise... It isn't really that complicated if you just take a minute to think about it. Like the above post says, loose and tight enough and that's it.

Sure it isn't. I was hoping for tips such as the one Vapula pointed out. Probably gonna buy something similar but definitely without that annoying "B".
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captainretardo



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 990

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get bookends I recommend using ones that cover the entire surface area of the lp jacket. If you get one that's, for example, only 6'' high and have it supporting a row of LPs, the top half of the lp on the end has no support. That's the number one thing to avoid.

edit-large books work best because they stand on their own anyway
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satanic ritual abuse



Joined: 09 May 2011
Posts: 2233

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

captainretardo wrote:
Ideally, your lps will be vertical but loose enough such that you can pull any lp out without moving the adjacent lps. In reality, that generally only works if you have a full cubby hole or keep something like a large book on one end if it's not full. If they're too tight, you will accelerate the emergence of ringwear on your jackets. If they're too loose and lean, it is possible for them to warp.

I have two types of storage: some 'spines out' shelving, and some flip-bins (like a record store, basically). In my spines-out shelves, all cubby holes (shelves) are full and records are vertical, but loose. That is achieved by keeping an amount on each shelf such that inserting a new LP can be done easily, and inserting said LP will still allow the records to be loose. In other words, 4-5 LPs can be added to each shelf (anywhere among the records, i.e., not at the ends). If I crammed them all to one side of the shelf, there would be a small gap on the other side, which could accomodate those 4-5 LPs... but instead of doing that, that 'extra space' is divided among all records on the shelf.

That is really the best way to store LPs, but is not always practical. For example if you buy records often, you would constantly be adding them, and then moving 1 or 2 lps from that shelf to the next shelf, moving 1 or 2 from that next shelf to the 3rd shelf etc. In other words, a not-fun chore.

The ones I keep in bins do acquire a gradual lean because the front of the bins don't offer a ton of support, plus I want to flip through the LPs. That's not ideal but is OK if you do it in the correct manner. (You could do this on spines-out shelves also). In this case, for the bin, the rear-most LP (analagous to the one on the end of spines-out shelving) needs to be flush against the wall. The next LP goes flush against it, and the next, and the next etc. However after maybe a few dozen LPs like that it is ok if they start to acquire a gradual lean--key idea is that the entire stack does not lean--if they do, the ones nearest the shelf wall will warp.

What you NEVER want to do is allow the top of an LP jacket to rest against the adjacent LP (or shelf wall), but have a substantial gap between the bottoms of the jackets. (Think of setting an LP jacket 1'' from a wall and leaning the jacket against the wall). When you then put weight on that (ie more records beside it), your records will warp. While that likely seems like common sense, there are pics here of people doing just that.

You might argue that if you allow your records to acquire a gradual lean far from a shelf wall, you must (by definition) be introducing gaps like that between them. The difference is that when done 'properly', those gaps are extremely extremely minute. Are they perfect for your LPs? No. But do they have a severe risk of getting warped? No.

In other words, there's always a bit of give and take storing LPs. The simple answer is don't keep them too tight (ringwear), or too loose (warping).


Shocked

haha, I learned something from your last lecture, I store my large art books with my LPs now. Wink
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Knucklehead



Joined: 14 Jan 2013
Posts: 256

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a Kallax delivered this week and finally got around to assembling it yesterday. I have a built-in shelf and this unit is serving as overflow.

I've never seen an Expedit in person, but, if the Kallax is any indication, it was totally overbuilt. I've read complaints about how the Kallax is more "flimsy", but that simply isn't the case. I initially had some concerns about the thickness of the shelving when I took the parts out fo the box, but I'm not worried anymore. The shelf is supported on both ends and in the middle, so the unsupported span is only 12". The wood is more than thick enough to span that gap without failing.

I can see, for aesthetic reasons, why people that have already purchased a number of Expedits would not want to start buying Kallax. However, they are perfectly fine for people just starting out.

Unless, of course, you want to build your own.
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Inverto Crosso



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 258
Location: Satanic Metal Temple

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bet Kallax is just as good as Expedit. Even if Expedit looks heavy and robust, it's made of chipboard. I think you can punch a hole in it with your bare fists, once there's enough booze and I.N.R.I. in the air.
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Piotr Sargnagel



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 2256
Location: At home, in front of my computer

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bit off topic but does anyone know what those inserts that you sometimes find within original inner sleeves are called/made of?
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blodhemn9



Joined: 12 Aug 2009
Posts: 5110
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Inverto Crosso wrote:
I bet Kallax is just as good as Expedit. Even if Expedit looks heavy and robust, it's made of chipboard. I think you can punch a hole in it with your bare fists, once there's enough booze and I.N.R.I. in the air.


Laughing
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hellmask



Joined: 07 Apr 2011
Posts: 913

PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I store my records in two cabinets with doors, similar to this:



I'm looking to upgrade, as the shelves in the cabinets are starting to warp from the weight. Questions:

1. On open shelving units like the Expedit, do the records tend to collect dust? All of my my records are in plastic sleeves, but I'd still prefer to keep dust away as much as possible. That's why I like the cabinets with doors.

2. For building your own shelving units, what type of wood is recommended?
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iron tyrant



Joined: 17 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Inverto Crosso wrote:
I think you can punch a hole in it with your bare fists.

Been there, done that. All true.
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